Monday, July 27, 2009

Capybaras, great rheas, howler monkeys...oh my!

Hi! Still in Salta. If you are ever in Salta, you must try the empanadas, they are excellent. Also bring your computer...they have wireless everywhere but it is impossible to find a good internet cafe. Alas.

I wanted to show some pictures of our trip to the Ibera' estuary, a few weeks ago. Martha, her friend from the states, Erika, and I drove to an enormous protected estuary called Esteros de Ibera to see the wildlife. Erika met Martha playing soccer in Oregon, and later married an Argintinean and move to Concordia, a city north of Buenos Aires. Lucky for us, she is a biologist and a bird watcher. Lucky for my blog. she is a photographer as well. Enjoy the photos!


We took a boat tour. The guide had to pole through the marshes because of all the floating plant matter. Here is the roseate spoonbill we saw. Look at the spoon shaped beak! It was a brilliant pink color.

Here is a South American Alligator, or Yacare´ sunning himself on one of the floating islands of the estuary. I have some more photos I will upload later. Large teeth, but supposedly didn´t eat anything bigger than baby capybaras. See below.


Cocoi Heron or called here a Garza Mora. Animals didn´t mind our presence in the estuary and came very close without minding us. This is what let us get some of these photos. My friend Erika had a standard zoom, nothing special. It is just that wildlife was everywhere, almost like a garden of Eden.


Cocoi heron again.


These are capybaras - the largest rodent in the world. Known as carpinchos here, they meander around slowly grazing on what ever is available. About the size of a pig, they are very endearing and reminded me of A.A. Milne´s Eeyore. At one point everyone was taking pictures of the monkeys and a capybara lumbered past -- he seemed to be saying ¨don`t mind me...I am just the largest rodent in the world...nothing exciting here...¨


More capybaras grazing, with a cierbo or small deer in the distance. They don´t generally have deer in Argentina, so the cierbos were one of the greatest attractions for the Argentinians on our boat.


Capybara running. Very cute! They are pig sized.


Great egret, or garza blanca.


These are screamers, a type of South American duck. This is their nest, and they are changing guard of the eggs in this photo. They are bigger than our normal ducks, and they do scream.


This is an adult male howler monkey. He did a nice job posing for us on some branches in a little clearing. The floating islands in the estuary stablize enough occassionally to have islands of forested areas. This is where we found the monkeys.


A juvenile howler monkey.


Martha and I walking towards the ranger station. The ranger station kept track of how many people visited. In general the estuary seemed well protected, although there is trouble from a large reservoir north of the province.


This Great Rhea is for my mother, Molly Frost, who is called Rhea by her grandchildren.


Epiphyte or airplant.

Ciao! Stay tuned for more.

Eli



Wednesday, July 22, 2009

Iguazu Falls

IIguazu Falls, Argentina. These were some of the more minor falls.

Dear all:


After several weeks I am getting to work on my promised blog. As you all have been waiting with baited breath, I am sure, I will start with one of the natural wonders of the world: Iguazu Falls, Argentina. Iguazu (big water in native language Guarani) is where Paraguay, Brasil and Argentina meet. It is the corner of the world that the Jesuits ¨civilized¨ for 150 years and then were kicked out by leading powers in 1767, and is captured in the movie ´The Mission´
This movie -- which I finally had a chance to see a few days ago -- is beautiful, historically accurate, and extremely sad. Today I was able to ask a few Guarani natives what they thought about the movie and got an overwhelming endorsement. It is always nice to know when people
like movies that are made about their culture.

The falls are one of Argentina´s major tourist attractions and consist of hundreds of falls, supposedly rivaled only by Victoria Falls in Africa. We saw the falls yesterday and were pretty impressed, even after fighting with seemingly thousands of other tourists to get a glimpse.
Check out the photos!




Here is me in my orange jacket that has been like a second layer of skin to me in Argentina. It is the middle of winter here, and I have been wearing long underwear even in these relatively tropical areas. Today it snowed a few inches in Buenos Aires, and it is all over the news. More on the Southern Hemisphere: I did see the Southern Cross, but I still have to look up the CSN song online so I can sing it while looking at the stars.


This falls is the ´Garganta del Diablo´ or the throat of the devil.


Martha on the walkway to the falls. You can see the spray in the distance.

Well I better run for now. We are taking an overnight bus to Salta, the Northwestern Argentinian wine province.

Stay tuned for my food diary and mate´ commentary, coming soon.

Ciao

Eli



Friday, July 17, 2009